How to Get Rid of Dry Rot

So, you’ve spotted a suspicious patch of crumbly timber or caught a musty whiff in the hallway—could be dry rot. And yes, it’s more common than you might think in older UK homes. The good news? Sorting it out is possible, and quite often, not as intimidating as it sounds. The trick is knowing where the moisture’s coming from, dealing with affected timber safely, and figuring out if you can tackle it yourself or if it’s time to call in the pros.

This guide breaks down how to get rid of dry rot step by step—whether you’re handy with tools or just need peace of mind from a trusted specialist. For more help with timber treatment, we’ve got you covered there, too.

Identify and Eliminate Moisture Sources

Dry rot doesn’t just show up out of nowhere. It thrives in places where timber stays damp over time. That’s often down to things like leaking pipes, cracked guttering, or rooms that don’t get much fresh air. What you’re really dealing with here isn’t just a wood problem—it’s a moisture problem.

Signs of excess moisture include:

• Damp, musty smell in corners or under floors
• Condensation on windows and walls
• Peeling paint or wallpaper
• Dark patches or visible mould on surfaces

To stop dry rot returning, start with a few basic checks:

• Look at gutters and downpipes—any cracks or overflows?
• Check under sinks, behind washing machines, and around toilets for slow leaks
• Open windows regularly and see if extractor fans are doing their job

It’s often the smallest drip or the coldest wall that ends up causing the biggest headache. So, before anything else, sort the source. Without that, even the best dry rot treatment won’t stick.

Remove and Replace Affected Timber

Once dry rot sets into timber, it spreads quietly but steadily. It breaks the wood down from the inside, and before long, you’re left with soft, crumbling beams or floorboards that barely hold their shape. Spotting the signs early can make all the difference.

What dry rot in timber might look or feel like:

• Timber with deep cracks or a brittle texture
• An orange, dusty coating (that’s the fungal spores)
• Grey or white cotton wool-like growths (called mycelium)
• That unmistakable musty, mushroom-like smell

If the timber feels soft when you press it—or flakes away with your finger—it’s got to go. Removing every bit of infected material is the only way to stop it spreading. Don’t forget: dry rot can sneak behind skirting boards, under floors, and into joists.

What you’ll need:

• Gloves and a dust mask
• Safety goggles
• Chisel or crowbar
• Stiff brush
• Heavy-duty bin bags or buckets for safe disposal

Dry rot doesn’t play nice—if you’re unsure how far it’s gone, or the structure’s at risk, it might be time to pause and get professional damp proofing advice before carrying on.

Apply Fungicidal Treatments

So, once the rotten timber’s out, the job isn’t quite done. Even if everything looks clean, dry rot spores could still be hanging around, waiting for the next damp spell. That’s where treatment comes in.

You’ve got a few options here. Most homeowners go for boron-based treatments, which are well-trusted and easy to apply. There are also surface sprays and injectable gels made for deeper absorption.

Here’s how to treat dry rot yourself:

1. Brush or vacuum loose debris and dust from the area
2. Apply the fungicide generously to all surrounding timbers—even those that look unaffected
3. Use a stiff brush to work the solution into cracks and joins
4. For masonry, spray directly onto the brick or stone where the rot may have reached
5. Leave to dry fully—some treatments take up to 48 hours
6. Reapply if needed, especially in colder or damper areas

The treatment acts like a barrier—it helps stop dry rot returning. And don’t skip bits. Rot loves corners, under sills, and those “out of sight, out of mind” gaps.

Improve Ventilation and Prevent Future Issues

Even after treatment, dry rot can creep back if the air stays stale and damp. That’s why better airflow isn’t just a nice-to-have—it’s part of the fix.

Proper ventilation lets moisture escape before it builds up in your walls, floors, or roof space. Some homes just need a few tweaks, others might need a bit more help.

Everyday home ventilation tips:

• Open windows daily, even for 10 minutes
• Avoid drying clothes indoors if you can
• Use lids when cooking and keep extractor fans running
• Keep furniture away from outside walls to let air move

If the issue’s bigger—or ongoing—look at proper ventilation upgrades. Here’s a quick look:

The aim is simple: keep your home dry enough that dry rot doesn’t get a second chance. In some homes, just one improvement makes a big difference.

Consider Professional Damp Proofing Services

Sometimes, dry rot spreads further than you think. If timbers are crumbling, floors feel unstable, or signs just keep coming back—it’s probably time to call in the professionals.

A proper survey can reveal hidden damage behind walls or under floorboards. Damp specialists use tools like moisture meters and thermal imaging to find trouble spots. They’ll know whether the problem’s dry rot in timber or something else entirely.

Common professional damp proofing options include:

• Injection damp proof courses to block rising moisture
• Membrane barriers to seal off walls or subfloors
• Full timber replacement where necessary

Look for companies with clear accreditations—TrustMark, KIWA, or CheckaTrade reviews are good signs. And steer clear of anyone pushing a sale before doing a proper survey.

Getting expert advice doesn’t mean you’ve failed—it just means you’ve stopped it from getting worse. That confidence? Worth it.

Still unsure how far the damage goes, or just want a second opinion? For no-obligation support and expert advice, contact us today. We’re here to help put dry rot behind you.